This past weekend Appalachian State University’s climbing team hosted their spring climbing competition, Southern Comfort XVI.
It was a BLAST!!!! I haven’t competed in ages, and I thought it would be a fun excuse to visit all my friends in Boone. I didn’t climb as well as I had hoped, and didn’t make it to finals, but placed #1 in Women’s Advanced and came home with two sweet Organic bags!!!!!
When I first got into the gym and started feeling out the problems, I’ll admit that a little bit of rage started bubbling up. I feel like there’s a lack of understanding in most gyms about how short a short-person is. So (a) I want setters to start being more creative in how to make a problem more difficult, aside from just putting in big moves, and (b) I need to figure out a way to channel that frustration into training harder, because I’ve been sorely slacking lately and that’s totes my fault for making poor life choices (chocolate > climbing?).
Just as a quick ruler idea from Drexel: when setting a move that is not intended to be a dyno, check the span from one fingertip to the opposite elbow. This may seem ludicrous, but that is actually my span compared to his.
So I went around and decided to give everything a three-go limit, starting with the hardest problems and working my way down. I’ve learned from previous comps that sieging is not the way to go. It quickly became apparent that all the advanced problems and most of the higher level intermediates were not feasible. I thought about getting upset. I saw other short girls getting upset. I actually saw one girl cry! But I didn’t want to go there. I wanted to climb hard-ish and have fun. So I just gave up on expectations and focused on problems that were more short-person-friendly. And that was fine. It was my attachment to a certain outcome that was the problem, not the outcome itself. If the ultimate goal is happiness/inner peace/what-have-you, then winning a comp should really be just a middleman, which means it is completely arbitrary. I shouldn’t need to “win” to have fun and feel good about myself.
I had left the competition early to answer my phone, went back inside to turn in my scorecard, and then finished up dealing with some really ridiculous situations going on back home — one of the plights of being an on-call therapist is that I have to stop whatever I am doing, 24/7, and deal with a client who was, in this situation, pooping all over the place as a power move against their parents. And then I got another call about a person trying to kill herself and had to somehow wave my magic wand and fix everything.
Sometimes I wonder why on earth I would choose to work in this field. Why didn’t I just stay in the minivan with Drexel, where everything was clean and calm and poop-free?
I took a walk to clear my head, ate lunch, cuddled my puppy, and still ended up scoring a front row seat to watch FINALS!!!! I got super excited watching Melise, Rose and Kelsey cruising through all the Women’s Finals problems!!!! I thought it was neat that they changed the comp structure this year to allow for 3 females and 3 males, versus just top 3 coed competitors as they have in the past. Everyone took their seats and the heat was on!
The highlight of the finals was most definitely catching Melise flying through the air in slow-motion and completing potentially the hardest single move of the day. (Don’t mind the creepy demon chanting.) Carson and Jeph got PSYCHED!!!!!!
When everything was said and done, it was a great competition and a great weekend. Everyone went home with something cool, whether or not they placed, because of the insane amount of raffle prizes. AND I got to eat Cha Da Thai for dinner two nights in a row with my friends. AND some ladies took the plunge and bought themselves a pStyle! AND we (minus Carson) had a really nice group hug slash kumbayah circle. AND don’t forget those Organic bags!! How could life get any better than this?!
Comment below and you’ll be entered in a drawing to win your very own pStyle!!!!