Drexel here, I just finished up this video of my good friend and fellow crusher Melise, climbing in Boone and Tennessee. Enjoy!
After finishing school, Evolv athlete Melise Edwards hit the road with the intention of climbing in all the best areas the South East has to offer. After a very successful stint in Boone, NC, Melise visited some Tennessee sandstone at LRC, Dayton Pocket, and Rocktown. She had a blast and looks forward to the next opportunity to explore more fantastic bouldering spots. In this video she climbs Klamper V8, Changing Lanes V9, and Portobello V9, in Boone, NC. She also quickly puts together River Dance V9, one of the most beautiful and classic boulder problems the South has to offer.
Keep up with Melise on her blog: itsajurg.blogspot.com/
I suppose I’ll keep the blog ball rolling! YEEHAW. (Please feel free to comment below with encouraging words for Drexel to write a blog entry. If we get at least 5 comments, I bet he will write something about how he lives in his van and climb rocks.)
Normally I’m not doing anything noteworthy that is climbing-related. But. This past weekend I took the long-but-not-too-awful drive to Chattanooga to hang out and climb with Drexel and Melise! (Yay!)
Saturday was kind of grey and gross, but we got out for a nice hike with the pupsy to look at the surprisingly impressive and proximal Apartment Boulders. I won’t tell you where they are (just in case this is supposed to be a local’s only secret) but I bet you could find out if you were persistent. It’s crazy to see boulders so close to civilization, until you stop and remember that the boulders were here first, so it’s less “Whoa, how did those boulders get here!?” and more “Whoa! Why did someone build apartments so close to large rocks?!”
Sunday was ROCKTOWN!!! I haven’t been back there since the good ole days of our road trip. Besides one chuffery (can that be an adjective?) day at Blowing Rock, I haven’t touched real rock since… a long enough time that I don’t have the patience to calculate it. So it’s been a while. Words cannot describe the rock star exhilaration I felt walking up to the Hueco warm-up area and finally touching sweet sweet sandstone. (Mmm.) Maybe a picture can do it justice?
The only thing more fun than exploring Rocktown is sharing Rocktown with a climber who is there for their first time. — I still fondly remember Zach S. hiking into Rocktown for his first time and getting psyched to throw his pad down at all the chossy stuff we passed on the way to actually climbable rock. We had to promise him that there was more, so much more to come if you keep walking five more minutes! — There is a strange satisfying joy that comes from showing someone all your favorite climbs. And even moreso, seeing someone flash the pants off of all your favorite climbs. Because honestly, that’s what happened when Melise met Mr. Rocktown. By the end of the day, Melise was victorious, and Mr. Rocktown had no pants on.
One by one, they fell before her – Hueco Simulator V-scary, Nose Candy V6, Sherman Photo V7, Helicopter v6, Standard Deviation V6, Golden Showers V5 (second-go, the only non-flash send of the day)… It was INSANE!
Not to be outdone, Drexel sent Triple Threat V9, one of the few remaining Rocktown climbs on his ticklist. I had so much faith in his sending powers that I videotaped it with my dinky-yet-sturdy Lumix (a camera I highly recommend for a roughing-it-road trip), so stay tuned for that lil thang. Please let me know if you have song suggestions!!!! Right now I’m thinking Beyonce…
I had no impressive sends for the day. In fact, I couldn’t even re-send some of my easy climbs from last year. And… I think that’s okay. It’s humbling, but it’s nothing to beat myself up about. Still recovering from a bad ankle injury and a lack of any serious climbing/training, my goal for the day was just to regain my confidence and psyche climbing outside on real rocks and re-learning how to find feet without neon tape. And I did that, so I guess my day was a success. (Confidence tip: Set the bar suuuppper low and then exceed expectations no matter what you do!)
My other goal for the day was to teach Rumi how to be a good crag dog. Except for that one time that something snapped in his little furry brain and he went into crazy run-in-circles-as-fast-as-possible-omg-run-run-run, he was pretty good at staying off pads and playing well with others.
Overall, a great day. We had been planning to hit up the Hot Chocolatier in the evening, and Melise had even racked up 50+ V-points, earning herself AT LEAST THREE liquid truffle drinks, but the shop was closed on Sundays. I don’t understand why, except maybe there was a petition by local churches to close the shop and improve service attendance? Is it blasphemous to worship chocolate?!? I say NO WAY. But put away those sympathy notes — we were sneaky and managed to create our own truffley-fudgey-deliciousness back home. Crisis averted.
New video out. Thanks to Organic for the support, and all the wonderful Booners. http://vimeo.com/113348945 Drexel is having a blast climbing in Chattanooga on the daily, kicking it with Mike and a chiweenie. I’m jealous (about both those things), but too busy coloring feelings with adorable little demon children and their families (yay “real” jobs). This upcoming winter break should see an increase in climbing, psyche, and trips with all our friends to Rocktown, LRC and maybe even Rumbling Bald (Dec. 13th Triple Crown!).
p.s. Good news for all you Asheville climbers: The new Chocolate Lounge just opened, and it’s easy jogging distance from Climbmax downtown. So set yourself a goal of climbing all the v3s — I mean 3 stars — er, I mean dots? Yes. Dots. Climb all the dots, and then get yourself a hot cup of salted caramel liquid truffle. (Or just skip the climbing and go straight to the chocolate – teehee!) … (You know who you are.)
Following the adventures of two rock climbers and their minivan