Category Archives: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

Top 5 Climbs Across the USA!

We thought this might be an interesting experiment:
We asked ourselves, “What have been our favorite climbs of the trip?”

It was difficult to narrow it down, but here are our five favorite climbs in each area (with heights and ape indexes shown to potentially explain preferences). Top five are listed in order of increasing grade, not order of favoritism. If someone of a more “normal” height would like to submit their favorites, please do so. Or just add your own can’t-miss climbs in the comments below! What are your favorite climbs in these – or other – bouldering areas?

tall short
The Southeast
(Rocktown, Little Rock City, Middle Creek, Zahnd)
1.Full Circle V5 (Rocktown)
2. Harvest Moon V8 (Zahnd)
3. Deliverance V10 (Middle Creek)
4. Golden Harvest V10 (Rocktown)
5. Iron Claw Sit V10 (Rocktown)
1. Asphalt V4/5 (Rocktown)
2. Little Bad V5 (Rocktown)
3. Nose Candy V6 (Rocktown)
4. Standard Deviation V6 (Rocktown)
5. Jerry’s Kids V7 (LRC)
(Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Cowell)
1.Le Beak V4 (Cowell)
2. Kung Fu V8 (HCR)
3. Jeff’s Prow V9 (HCR)
4. Ab Lounge V10 (Cowell)
5. Off the Rails V10 (Cowell)
1. Dirty Bitch V3 (HCR)
2. Le Beak V4 (Cowell)
3. Campus Card II V7 (Cowell)
4. Electrolica V7 (Cowell)
5. Orb Weaver V8 (HCR)
Joe’s Valley
1.The Angler V2
2. Notting Hill V8
3. Playmate of the Year V9
4. Eden V10
5. Ghost King V11
1. Stumble Bum Traverse V5
2. Low Tide V6
3. Planet of the Apes V7
4. Spam V7
5. Tug Boat Complex V9


It’s such a treat to wake up with the sun slowly nudging my eyes open. Part of me wants to sink back into the bliss of delicious sleepingbag slumber, but another part is alert and curious about what might already be happening in the world.

The breeze at dawn has secrets to tell you.
Don’t go back to sleep. 
You must ask for what you really want.
Don’t go back to sleep.
People are going back and forth across the doorsill
where the two worlds touch.
The door is round and open.
Don’t go back to sleep.

Continue reading Animaltastic

Surviving the slush

Another oddly warm, snow-covered day in Arkansas. It’s become a countdown until this area will be too hot to climb. In four more days, the high will be 75F. So the heat is on to send. Drexel had his eye on Flash Gordan (v10) in an almost obsessive manner. And then, first try today, he SENT!!! And on his hike back, he pet a beautiful white horse!! It just came up to him and nuzzled his face!!

The epically long, steep hike through the snow/slush towards Flash Gordan.

Continue reading Surviving the slush

Blood and snot

It’s a gorgeous sunny day, and for some reason we’re staying inside. Okay, maybe not some reason – Drexel is watching ABS Nationals, and my face is chock full of mucus from a head cold that crept in two days ago. Somehow yesterday I managed to complete Orb Weaver, my first v8 (YAYYYYYY), but otherwise my body is begging me to restrict my life to drinking tea or napping. Except tea hurts my tongue, which I almost bit off during a powerful fall yesterday, a strange whip lash effect as my bum hit the pad first, followed by my back and head. At first I just curled into a fetal position and spit blood while Drexel cooed over me, but finally the bleeding stopped and I realized it was merely a flesh wound. I still had a tongue, but I was shaken. My anger at the rock fueled my eventual send.

Spidering through Orb Weaver (v8).

Continue reading Blood and snot

Lowdown on Climbing and Camping in the USA

We have created a Lowdown on Climbing and Camping page which will be continuously updated as we travel, and should be a valuable resource for anyone else who plans to camp out near climbing crags. Or rest. Or just climb in a new place.

As of Feb 20, 2014, this page covers Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and Cowell in Arkansas, Rocktown and Little Rock City (aka Stonefort) in the Southeast, and Joe’s Valley, Utah.

By the end of our road trip, this page will also have info about various places between here and there that tickle our fancy (e.g. Colorado, Squamish, maybe Leavenworth).

So check it out!

And feel free to contact us if you have information to share about these – or other – climbing locations!