Tag Archives: joe’s valley

Top 5 Climbs Across the USA!

We thought this might be an interesting experiment:
We asked ourselves, “What have been our favorite climbs of the trip?”

It was difficult to narrow it down, but here are our five favorite climbs in each area (with heights and ape indexes shown to potentially explain preferences). Top five are listed in order of increasing grade, not order of favoritism. If someone of a more “normal” height would like to submit their favorites, please do so. Or just add your own can’t-miss climbs in the comments below! What are your favorite climbs in these – or other – bouldering areas?

tall short
The Southeast
(Rocktown, Little Rock City, Middle Creek, Zahnd)
1.Full Circle V5 (Rocktown)
2. Harvest Moon V8 (Zahnd)
3. Deliverance V10 (Middle Creek)
4. Golden Harvest V10 (Rocktown)
5. Iron Claw Sit V10 (Rocktown)
1. Asphalt V4/5 (Rocktown)
2. Little Bad V5 (Rocktown)
3. Nose Candy V6 (Rocktown)
4. Standard Deviation V6 (Rocktown)
5. Jerry’s Kids V7 (LRC)
Arkansas
(Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Cowell)
1.Le Beak V4 (Cowell)
2. Kung Fu V8 (HCR)
3. Jeff’s Prow V9 (HCR)
4. Ab Lounge V10 (Cowell)
5. Off the Rails V10 (Cowell)
1. Dirty Bitch V3 (HCR)
2. Le Beak V4 (Cowell)
3. Campus Card II V7 (Cowell)
4. Electrolica V7 (Cowell)
5. Orb Weaver V8 (HCR)
Joe’s Valley
1.The Angler V2
2. Notting Hill V8
3. Playmate of the Year V9
4. Eden V10
5. Ghost King V11
1. Stumble Bum Traverse V5
2. Low Tide V6
3. Planet of the Apes V7
4. Spam V7
5. Tug Boat Complex V9

What’s up with Price, Utah?

For those of you climbing in Joe’s Valley and in need of a rest day, or perhaps just passing through the state of Utah and in need of a driving break, you should probably be aware of a the small city of Price. Here’s what you should know:
Continue reading What’s up with Price, Utah?

Trying to cram life into words

I read somewhere that the act of crossing things off your to-do list (especially with red ink) releases happy chemicals in your brain. Whether or not this is true, I certainly get a kick out of crossing things off in the guidebook.

Today I circled around the U.M.W.A’s “Small One” boulder with two pads and sang loudly to myself (don’t worry, nobody else was around) as I attempted to flash all eleven of the problems ranging from V1 to V7. Trying to flash a problem is great practice because it forces me to actually think. (I know, this is highly unusual.) Where I didn’t get a flash, I was able to figure out what I did wrong and send within another go or two. While some of these problems were pretty awful (e.g. Small One V2 that starts with a tiny wanna-be mono – no thanks), most were rather enjoyable/adorable (if you haven’t noticed, those are synonymous for me when it comes to climbing).
Continue reading Trying to cram life into words

Don’t stop, don’t stop, don’t stop the feet

“I can’t change the direction of the wind, but I can adjust my sails to always reach my destination.” – Jimmy Dean

We got to Joe’s Valley Sunday afternoon and played around on some fun classics like Angler (v2) and slipped off the super polished Big Joe (v7). Unlike most of the other places we’ve climbed on this trip, Joe’s Valley’s boulders are scattered around the sides of two different roads. Similar to 221 in Boone, you have to drive, park, and hike a couple minutes to get to any of the dozens upon dozens of boulders. After you finish your project (or give up) , you get back in the car, drive to another area, park, and repeat. It will take us a while to figure out the lay of the land. The only Joe’s Valley guidebook is poorly written and  covers about 1/3 of the total actual boulders.
Continue reading Don’t stop, don’t stop, don’t stop the feet