Butterfinger Donuts for Dinner

It was blue skies and golden sun when out of nowhere the wind picked up and blew in snow. On such a nice day, the white flurries looked like a team of perfectly choreographed fairies doing synchronized swimming across the desert. This lasted for maybe 5-10 minutes, and then the day returned to normal and we kept climbing.

Snow swirling around the shortie-beta double knee-bars on Planet of the Apes, v7.

Today Paul was able to send Resident Evil (v10) on his third go. With that highly anticipated project out of the way, we moved on to Chips (v7) and Planet of the Apes (v7). Michaela and I got super close on both, but our skin and psyche slowly wore down, just in time for the rock to get swarmed by all the kids who came out to Joe’s Valley for the weekend. We’ve noticed that brushing holds between goes and cleaning off sandy shoes is not commonplace here. Drexel had to (gently) bark at a guy who walked up and started feeling all the Resident Evil holds with his completely unchalked, greasy paws, right as Paul was getting ready to try again. It’s hard to not come off as an ass when telling people how to have standard climbing courtesy….

Paul using tricky foot-beta on Resident Evil (v10).

All in all, the past few days have been a blast. There have been countless sends and also plenty of amazingly fun training via trying lots of interesting, stout climbs at our limit. (Since anything that isn’t a send is technically “training.”) Joe’s Valley is rich in classic v7s that I hope to tick off one-by-one throughout the next month. The climbs are a good blend of mental and muscle, especially highballs like Dirty Harry (v7). I’ve been very impressed and inspired by the ladies and gents we’ve been climbing with the past few days, especially when a certain guy who was feeling under the weather still smashed the powerful Wills A Fire (v6).

I’ve been slacking on taking photos, Drexel’s been slacking with the video taping, but luckily I’ve caught a couple shots of our favorites:

Michaela topping out Pimpin Jeans (v4)
Paul getting rough with Dirty Harry (v7).
“Who cares about [Drexel] Zoolander anyway? The man has only one look for Christ’s sake! Blue Steel? Ferrari? Le Tigre? They’re the same face! Doesn’t anybody notice this? I feel like I’m taking crazy pills!” – Hooters, v9
Drexel walking on sunshine (whoa oh oh). But actually, walking on Feels Like Grit (v8).
Gritting through what it feels like. (Get it?!?)
Paul shaking out and then slam-dunking on They Call Him Jordan (v8).
Michaela reducing the problem on Kill By Numbers (v5).
+1 point for the girls!!!!!

The final send score of the day was boys 2 vs. girls 8. Sorry fellas.

But for reals, Joe’s Valley just won’t be the same without our friends. The wonderful, and equally sad, part of our cross-country road trip, is that we have met so many really great individuals… and then sooner or later we part, potentially never to see them again. It’s like eating at a buffet, and then going back to realize that there just isn’t any more Michaela-pie left, and you can only hope that the next pie that comes out will still be tasty. (I mean that in the least-creepy way possible.) I think it would be so rad if we could have a party at the end of this trip and invite all the New Mexicans, all the Arkansans and Chattanoogans and Knoxvillians and even the Boonies. While there will always be a couple bad apples in the bunch (the elitist glarers and egotistical gumbys), I have found that rock climbing draws some of the coolest cats around. Even if I didn’t climb, I think all my best friends would be climbers.

 ““Be genuinely interested in everyone you meet
and everyone you meet will be genuinely interested in you.”
-Rasheed Ogunlaru

3 thoughts on “Butterfinger Donuts for Dinner”

  1. Dear Meira and Drexel,

    I recently came across your blog and discovered you are in Joe’s Valley. My husband and I are also on a climbing road trip, and will be making a stop in Joe’s come early April. We were actually there for a couple of days, but ran back down to Moe’s Valley while the bad weather in Joe’s passes through. Please let us know if you would like to climb together sometime. I would die to get some girl beta!

    Best wishes,

    Nicole (and Chris)


    1. Hey Nicole (and Chris)!
      We will most definitely still be around Joe’s Valley in early April. The weather hasn’t been so bad, although there are random gusts of snow on otherwise sunny days. You should come sooner, before the weather gets too warm! I’d love to have another girl to climb with! 🙂

      p.s. Message me via the contact form with your # or email so we can try to meet up once you get here.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s